This week was a stressful one. Between completing two large final projects for my summer course, ensuring I've fulfilled all of BU’s practicum requirements, and trying to compile every last item I may need, my brain was exhausted. Add a day and a half of travel to that, and I am pretty ready to collapse.
I didn't even remember until late last week that I didn't have a suitcase to bring. This was the first time I've left for a long-term trip from anywhere but my home in Pennsylvania, so I didn't have the luxury of borrowing Mom's Haiti dresses and stealing from her stockpile of travel-sized knick-knacks. Needless to say, it's been a whirlwind past few days full of CVS, Star Market, and TJ Maxx trips, and my wallet is sobbing. I did manage to bring some goodies for the house staff (kale chips and Cheez-its). And all I forgot were my contact lenses!
My flight arrived yesterday (Friday) around 5:30 pm. Rebecca, a MFH super-fan/part-time helper, and her husband Ted came to pick me up, with their adopted Haitian princess, Syndie, in tow. We went out for pizza at the local Port-Au-Prince ex-pat hangout for the evening. The pizza was way too good and by the time we made it home, I was dead tired. It's much warmer in PAP in the evenings but I think my body knew what to do and I was out pretty quickly. This morning, Ronel picked me up and we made our way to Hinche, where there was warm soup and lots of smiles to greet me. When I finally got to the house, the stress and craziness of the past weeks (honestly, months) was all worth it. I am in my element. As soon as I stepped out of the Land Cruiser, Monique (the laundry lady), Eliette (cleaning lady), and Dieuny (cook) gave me huge hugs and kisses. Emily and I embraced for a long time and spent hours chatting and catching up today. I've snuggled Ina May tons and will continue to as long as I can. In Emily's words, so much has changed but so little has changed, too. Either way, I AM SO HAPPY.
(I feel wrong not mentioning the awesome people who are here now -- the new staff and one volunteer -- but I promise I'll write more about them soon!)
I originally began this post right before I left, so I feel the need to post these thoughts. I've shared my travel plans with many people over the last few weeks, and have received mixed reactions. Most people ask if I'm excited, which I absolutely am. Some have questions about crime, my safety, drinking water quality, and my language skills. And others offer their wisdom about traveling to "places like Haiti." I think many first-time or short-term travelers to developing countries have misconceptions (at least in part because of post-quake horror stories), and it can be offensive to someone like me, who feels the need to defend their (Haitian) friends. I can't speak for every country "like Haiti," but this is what you should know about travel to Haiti:
1. Yes, people are right; don't drink the water. There is no public water treatment facility, and in many places running water comes from communal taps in someone's backyard. There are, however, treatment facilities that bottle water and put it in those big 5-gallon jugs – and they’ll deliver it to your home. Also, you can swim in it, wash your face with it, and cook with it -- provided you are as careful as you would be if you were camping in the US (avoid stagnant water and boil it).
2. Eat the mangos, eat the avocados, eat the bananas, and make juice with the oranges. Buy food from the market place or you will go insane eating beans and rice all the time (although Haitian food is absolutely delicious, there is little variety from week to week). Boil your veggies. Go to the market with a friend or translator if you're not comfortable alone to ensure you get the right prices and the biggest veggies. Market food is homegrown without any pesticides or genetic modification, so it's literally the realest it gets. Enjoy it -- don't fear it!
3. Most people probably wouldn’t take me up on this, but I think you should try the street food. In every tiny village in Haiti, you will find women sitting above a pot of oil making a fantastic little treat called paté. These are fried pockets of different combinations of veggies – cabbage, tomato, etc. --, meat, and sometimes an egg. They also add this magic ketchup-y salsa sauce that usually has some spice to it. And they’ll prepare them right in front of you so you know they're fresh! A more classic street food option would be fried plantains, pikliz, and chicken or goat with the classic Haitian brown sauce and some raw onions on top. For a snack, try the grilled corn on the cob. YUM. Haitians don’t undercook anything, so give it a try.
4. Talk to people. 99% of the world is good, and locals want to learn about you. Try to learn a little bit of the language and it will go so far. Smile at people and greet them -- and don't forget that although their world is completely different, you are entering it. Remember where they're coming from (figuratively), and treat them as people with very real experiences that have shaped them. Just as Americans have their perceptions of Haitians, Haitians have their preconceptions of Americans. But don't forget that you can communicate non-verbally (Bobby is a pro - everyone here loves him and he speaks MAYBE 3 Creole words) and that you can develop some really lasting friendships. Also, you learn so much more about a place when you open up.
5. Go for a walk through town. Walk into little shops along the way and explore. I spent an entire year in Hinche and by the end of that year, I was still discovering little gems throughout the town. You can find almost anything you could need, and you'll meet so many people. It's good to be with a buddy, but a person is more vulnerable when they're alone (in both good and bad ways).
These are just a few thoughts based on conversations I've had lately. Anyway, I am safe and happy as a clam under my mosquito net at MFH. I'm extremely excited for the coming weeks and I can't wait to share more. Hopefully I'll be a bit better about blogging during this trip than I was when I lived here :) Pictures coming soon!
